After checking out a slew of new restaurants, I finally had a chance to visit one of Richmond’s favorites, and, as a relative newcomer to the city, experience what Richmond diners have known and loved for years. This week, I headed for Can Can Brasserie in Carytown to see if it truly lived up to its Parisian roots.

The ambience, décor and many menu items are definitely on track with a neighborhood Paris brasserie, although everything at Can Can, from the size of the venue to the food portions, is super-sized. In Paris, the local brasserie is inexpensive and intimate, a casual everyday restaurant for all three meals of the day, from a Croque Monsieur (grilled ham and cheese) or Croque Madame (add a sunnyside up egg to Monsieur) in the morning to an evening meal of Steak Frites. Can Can does much the same thing, but this is no tiny corner mom-and-pop place.

The Croque Madame was good, but not exactly like the French version. Mine was a double-decker affair with tons of melted cheese and ham topped with the smiling egg, whereas the typical Parisian Madame would be open-faced on a single slice of bread that would set you back a couple of Euros. The more-than-generous portion of Can Can’s version accounts for the $10 price tag, and this is more or less true of all the menu selections. 

I went back for a late lunch during the café hours (3 to 5 p.m.) and tried the Cheeseburger with Frites. I went for the Gruyere and again I received a huge burger with a heaping side of crispy shoestring fries. Also priced at $10, this one’s big enough to share and is one of the best values on the late afternoon menu, which also includes a Quiche du Jour, Chicken Paillard, Onion Soup and a few salads.

The lunch menu is much more expansive with several crepes, sandwiches, and tartines, as well as a Fruits de Mer section that shines with shrimp (crevettes), lobster (homard), oysters (huitres), and mussels in white wine and garlic. Lunch entrees and specials run from $10 to $16, and the salads here ($11 to $13) are entrée portions.

Can Can has upscaled the menu selections and prices on their dinner menu, but the festive atmosphere makes this a great choice for a celebration with family and friends. Each day of the week features a Plat du Jour, from Pan Roasted Prawns Provencal on Mondays to Bouillabaisse for Sunday supper.

I could make an entire meal from the starter list and raw bar offerings, with duck liver paté, an individual goat cheese fondue with apples and a sampling of all of the fruits de mer.

Real seafood lovers should share a Grand Plateau ($75) for an ocean-sized serving that includes a whole lobster, 16 oysters, eight shrimp, eight clams, 12 mussels and whatever crab is in season. For traditional French classics, look to the Coq au Vin ($24.50) or Roast Duck Breast ($25).

The wine list is oh-so-French with vintages from every region and the nice option of some selections as half bottles. Prices are in a reasonable range from $29 to $68, with a full bar and good selection of beers if you’re not an oenophile.

I can see why Richmond loves this boisterous brasserie and all I can say is that they might want to add a new slogan to their menu: Allez grand ou allez à la maison (Go big or go home) because everything at Can Can is a show-stopper.