"Give me liberty or give me a replacement for Acapella" has been the rallying cry on Church Hill for several months, but the new Patrick Henry's Pub & Grille has finally opened its doors.
Once again, Hill residents can descend to the basement pub and visit with bartender James, a member of one of Richmond's favorite pop punk bands, River City High. The street level dining room is light and airy, with excellent art provided by the Schindler Gallery across the street so you can pick up a local masterpiece while you eat.
Chef Nicolai Creatore, formerly of Millie's, has created a true pub menu with affordable, approachable food that harks back to his Italian roots and cooking lessons from his mother. Sandwiches are homey and hearty with choices that include a Meatball Parmigiana, Mozzarella Caprese, Grilled Italian Sausage, Italian Salami and Eggplant Parmigiana.
I tried the Chicken Parm, which was totally satisfying. It's huge, gooey and served on nice, fresh crusty bread. Since I was already blowing my carb and calorie count, I went for the hand-cut fries as a side, but the health conscious can also try either the orzo salad or a house salad.
A big burger and a New York Strip sandwich round out the offerings. Sandwich prices range from $7.45 to $9.25 and portions are generous.
Two of Creatore's specialties that are already creating a buzz in the neighborhood are his Calamari appetizer and White Wine Garlic Mussels. The secret to his calamari is what he calls the "60-second Sicilian sautée" with basil, mint and shallots in a roasted garlic and white wine reduction, as opposed to the traditional fried version.
Likewise, the mussels are prepared simply so the herbs and white wine garlic don't overwhelm the focal point of the dish.
"Nicolai Creatore has created a true pub menu with affordable, approachable food that harks back to his Italian roots."IF YOU GO:Patrick Henry's Pub and Grille
2302 E. Broad St.
(804) 644-4242
Hours:
Sunday to Saturday: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Pub: Smoking Dining Room: Non-smoking |
You can also get mussels Putanesca (tomato broth, capers and black olives), Gorgonzola (cheese, roasted garlic and pesto cream), and Fennel (with tomato, garlic, pernod and spinach). All of the mussel dishes are $12.95.
Dinner entrées stick with Creatore's winning formula of Mom's red sauce and classic Italian home cooking. Eggplant and Chicken Parmigiana skip the sandwich bread and are served with linguini. The meatball sandwich is reprised in a Linguini and Meatball dish and clams replace mussels in the Linguini and Clam selection with white wine and herbs.
Pan Seared Salmon with an Italian twist is served with red sauce, clams, calamari and capers over linguini. The Shrimp & Eggplant is an intriguing combination that I may try next time. It's served over penne with ceci beans, parmesan and asiago cheese. A Grilled New York Strip completes the list in a nod to the red-meat lovers of the dining world, and it's also the priciest choice at $18.95. The full menu is available in both the Pub and the street-level dining room.
While the Patrick Henry's is still awaiting that magical piece of paper known as a liquor license, co-owner Eric Werner is expecting it any day (knock on wood!). The charming back patio is not open yet due to our run of rain and humid weather, but this will be a favorite spot when cooler weather comes our way. Even without an ice-cold beer, cocktail or glass of wine, the food is worth the trip here if you're a fan of good, everyday Italian cuisine.